Month by month

South Luangwa in March

March is the rains losing conviction. The storm count drops week by week, the first closed camps start switching their lights back on around the middle of the month, and the valley is still as green as it will ever be.

If you only want the answer

March is a hinge month: still emerald, still boatable, but drying fast. Go late in the month and you catch the reopenings and the start of the published low season on the 15th; go early and it is February with slightly less rain.

The taper, measured

The thirty-year normals put March at 151 mm over 17 rain days, down from 208 mm in February, with highs of 29.3°C and nights easing to 21.3°C. The river stays high because it lags the rain by weeks, but the storms space themselves out.

By the last week you can feel the year turn: clearer mornings, firming roads and the first hint of the long drying that will end in September's dust.

Reopening season begins

Track & Trail comes back on 25 March and Thornicroft Lodge reopens during the month, joining the river camps that never stopped. Nsefu's emerald opening runs through to the end of March. The bush camps deeper in the park hold out until May and June.

Rates follow the calendar rather than the weather: most operators' published low season starts on 15 March, which is why the reopenings cluster around mid-month.

Late March is the pick

If you have flexibility inside the month, take the last ten days. You keep the green and the birds, gain a couple of reopened camps and drier roads, and boating is usually still possible on the main river.

One caution: flights to Mfuwe are at their thinnest of the year around now, so lock the flight before the lodge rather than the other way round.